Created for the 101st Anniversary of Lee’s 101 Line, Through the Lens of Nigel Cabourn.
Lee x Nigel Cabourn collection joins the 101-year history of Lee’s “101” line with the craftsmanship of Cabourn’s heritage suiting label, Ox’ed Silver, honoring a century of American workwear. The denim worn across the nation’s railways, ranches, and rodeos in the 1920s through the 1940s is now reimagined through his lens as a master craftsman.
The collection takes on additional significance as a lasting expression of the craftsmanship, historical research and deep appreciation for workwear that defined Nigel Cabourn's career. His work was never about nostalgia for its own sake. It was about understanding why a garment was built the way it was and honoring that intention with meticulous attention. This capsule is a continuation of that legacy, and the result is wearable art that keeps the memory of Lee history alive for decades to come.
The Silhouettes
Era-defining Lee styles form the foundation of the collection: the 91J Loco Jacket and 101J, alongside the 91B Overall and 101 Jean. Each has been thoughtfully studied and reimagined in Japan, true to the details that made these pieces trusted tools of the trade for the railway workers, ranch hands, and rodeo performers who wore them first: sturdy construction, functional pockets, and a fit built to move with the job at hand. When your livelihood depended on what you wore, it had to earn your trust, and these silhouettes did exactly that.
The Fabric: Brurry Denim
At the heart of the collection is Brurry Denim, a proprietary fabric developed by Nigel Cabourn's Ox'ed Silver, making its first-ever appearance through the Lee capsule. Woven in Japan from intentionally uneven and unpredictable yarns, this selvedge denim is designed to evolve with the wearer through time: rich texture, irregular fading, and wear patterns that develop uniquely with every piece, so no two garments age exactly alike.
The inspiration traces back to European vintage garments from the 1920s, prized for the very imperfections modern manufacturing tries to eliminate. That instability has been painstakingly recreated, and it’s reflected in the fabric’s name itself: Brurry, a deliberate twist on “blurry,” reflecting the unsteady, unpredictable, one-of-a-kind character woven into every yard.
Three Icons, Reimagined
Each piece in the collection tells its own story, inspired by three distinct figures from Lee’s workwear archive.
Railway Man
Inspired by the Lee workwear worn by railway workers in the 1920s, when locomotives were the primary means of transportation across America. Archival details bring the era to life, including period-correct buttons, hair-on-hide patches, and suspender attachments on the jean. Crafted in Japan, the yarn is hank-dyed in pure indigo, then treated for a deep tone and vintage look. Woven on modified vintage shuttle looms, the signature right-hand twill Brurry Denim delivers a rich, uneven texture built to evolve with wear.
Ranch Worker
A reinterpretation of the legendary 101J jacket and Lee button fly jean worn by ranch hands throughout the 1940s. Classic Lee details, including the jean’s leather waist patch and the jacket’s pleated front design, are paired with military-inspired touches like laurel wreath buttons and exposed selvedge accents. Woven in Japan on modified vintage shuttle looms using both right-hand and left-hand twills, the contrasting weave patterns work alongside Brurry Denim to create a distinctive patina and texture over time.
Rodeo Clown
A tribute to the oversized trousers worn by rodeo clowns in the arena, this bold silhouette reimagines Lee’s historic Cowboy 101-Z, known for its revolutionary zip fly. Archival details include a wide, relaxed fit, a rear waistband cinch, and suspender attachments, all built for the fast, exaggerated movement rodeo clowns needed to protect fallen riders and keep the crowd entertained. Made in Japan, Brurry Denim is woven using right- and left-hand twills, creating a rich texture that evolves with wear.
A Collection Made to Be Lived In
Every detail, stitch, fabric, and fade in the collection tells a story, which is exactly what Nigel Cabourn spent his career trying to capture. This collection is his interpretation of Lee’s workwear archive, crafted with the same reverence for authenticity that defined his 40-plus years in the industry. Now you can own a piece of wearable history, as unique as the collection that inspired it.